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Contact Details Freight contacts. Access our latest Annual Report out now. The Annual Report details our achievements each year. Skip to navigation. Back to Department Homepage. Bailer or bilge pump. Several brands of bilge pumps exist such as Johnson pump, Seaflo or Whale. So, in your opinion which boat should have a bilge pump? In principle, all! Indeed, the hold designates the bottom of a nautical craft, that is to say that it can be a question of a boat as of a ship.
This is the reason why bilge pumps are of different sizes and powers, depending on the sizes of the boats. There is no point in trying to find out what are the requirements for bilge pumps , if you cannot distinguish the different models of pumps. There are three main ones: manual bilge pumps, ordinary or manually triggered electric bilge pumps, and automatic or self-priming electric bilge pumps.
Often bilge pump manufacturers such as Nuova Rade, Osculati or Rule offer all models. These bilge pumps require permanent muscle strength to function. Because of their low flow, they are often quickly submerged in the event of a major waterway. This is the reason why it is not recommended to use them as the main bilge pump. It is best to use it as a secondary bilge pump. There are two main models of manual bilge pumps: the portable or siphon bilge pump and the fixed or diaphragm bilge pump.
See an efficient siphon bilge pump. The most common model on motor boats and sailboats, this type of bilge pump works thanks to an electric motor which allows it to suck water from the bilge. Designed to be submerged, it usually attaches to the lowest point of the boat, as well as in areas that are difficult to access.
You will find in the table below the submersible electric bilge pumps manually operated that we recommend according to their flow:. NB: if you do not know which bilge pump flow rate to choose, consult our article 'What type of bilge pump should I choose for my boat? If you want to know the most suitable fuse for your bilge pump, read ' What fuse to use on a boat bilge pump? Its operation is based on the same principle as that of an electric submersible bilge pump.
You will find in the table below the automatic bilge pumps that we recommend according to their flow:. In some cases, the space available will be decisive in the choice of automatic bilge pump.
Nothing beats the simplicity and pumping power of a centrifugal pump. However, diaphragm pumps can be a better choice where water has to be pumped more than a few feet uphill, and they can be installed in a drier, more convenient place than the bottom of the bilge. Adding a filter before the pump to remove debris reduces the risk of failure.
Now that you know how different bilge pumps work, the next step is determining how many and what size your boat should have. The first thing to understand when shopping for a bilge pump is that just because a pump is rated to pump 1, gallons per hour gph that doesn't mean it will. See the " Bilge Pump Capacity: Do The Math " to figure out how much a bilge pump is likely to actually move when installed on your boat compared to its rated capacity.
So how much pumping capacity should your boat have? It's a good question, but one with no clear or easy answer, mainly because boats are so different. Any compartment that's essentially watertight i.
While the American Boat and Yacht Council ABYC hasn't set requirements concerning bilge pump capacity, the American Bureau of Shipping recommends one gallon-per-minute gpm pump — or about 1, gph — and one gpm gph pump for boats under 65 feet.
To me, it's a simple case of bigger is better — within reason, of course. Based on size alone, I'd recommend a minimum of 5, gph pumping capacity for a foot vessel, divided among a 1,gph primary pump and two 2,gph backup pumps.
I'd also throw a high-volume manual pump in the mix for good measure, since all that pumping capacity will be useless if something happens to your batteries. Based on this, you'll probably find you don't have enough pump capacity.
If you decide to install more, make sure to follow tips below. And if you are happy with what you have, take a look to see if your current bilge pump needs a bit more respect. The first step on the path to bilge pump nirvana is making sure your boat's bilge is clean and free of trash and debris. Routine bilge cleaning is a fact of life for older boats, but even that new boat you're purchasing can have a bilge littered with pump-clogging bits of construction material — wood shavings, bits of fiberglass, and gobs of epoxy.
Oily bilge residue should also be cleaned up and disposed of properly. In addition to the ecological concerns of accidentally pumping it overboard, oil combines with dirt to form a gooey sludge that can clog pumps and prevent float switches from operating properly. In addition, some newer bilge pumps are designed not to pump automatically if they sense oil in the water, so keep those bilges clean! Oil combines with dirt to form a gooey sludge that can clog pumps and prevent float switches from operating.
Use smooth-walled marine-grade hose for pump discharge runs and secure them at each end with marine-grade stainless steel hose clamps. Hoses should be routed as directly as possible to their discharge thru-hull and should also be properly supported approximately every 18 inches to prevent chafe and excessive movement. Speaking of discharge thru-hulls, they should be situated well above the waterline to prevent water from siphoning back into the bilge.
Siphon breaks and riser loops are also recommended and should reach at least 18 inches above static waterline where possible. If your bilge pump uses a flapper style automatic float switch, it must be securely mounted and installed so that the floating-arm is clear of wires, hoses and other obstructions that could impede its operation.
Orient the switch fore and aft, with the flapper pointed toward the stern. This is especially important on powerboats — during jackrabbit takeoffs, surging bilge water can damage the flapper mechanism. Installing them close to a bulkhead or frame also helps protect the switch from a torrent of water. Enclosed switches eliminate this worry, but they're difficult to inspect and test. Regardless of the type you choose, make sure each pump has a manual switch as well; none of the automatic systems are failsafe.
Make sure all bilge pumps not only have intake strainers or strum boxes installed, but that they can be easily reached and cleared of debris. As a marine surveyor I often see centrifugal-style pumps mounted beneath engines and completely inaccessible, even to simply clean the strainer — if your boat has similarly inaccessible pumps, relocate them for better access.
Common bilge pump problems include physical damage, loose hoses and failure to securely mount the pump to ensure proper orientation.
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